Double the Fun Testing Page

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Testing Version 2 now available from button above – updated chart, chart key, written instructions for the chart, additional tutorials and clarifications per feedback 🙂

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  1. haven’t started actual knitting yet, but looking forward to it! just gathering materials for now.
    one note : it would be nice to have an estimated amount of yarn mentioned in the materials for those who do not have access to the yarns shown or to

    i do love that the mm size for needles is given, due to a semi-recent incident where i discovered that a book from the UK used a hook size that is not possible to find in the US from standard shops. i know, i know, that’s crochet instead of knitting, i’m panstitchual. BUT it emphasizes the need for more exact measurements if appropriate, mainly for those of us who refuse to do test swatches.

  2. still haven’t started knitting yet, but i have Words!

    for those who have never made a full sock before, the following would be AWESOME :
    – JMCO? i get it’s a cast on. i’ll look it up. still.
    – m1r? m1l?
    maybe define these in the Techniques list, or at least the m1r? i know i can probably look this up but i also know that abbreviations can mean different things for different patterns, so i always check a pattern for definitions when they use abbreviated language.

    i was going to say the chart needs a legend, BUT then i realized that with the pics, it’s pretty obvious that the SL (slip stitch, probably?) is the overlay color, i’m just slow and haven’t had enough coffee yet.

    what in heck’s name is a gusset
    i LOVE the math page. it breaks all the things down for sock-making noobs (this guy XD ).
    the materials list should include a gauge ruler or something. i don’t have one yet (still refuse to do swatches), but it’s on my to-get list.

    OH the resources page has the things listed. nm basically everything i said above, but now i don’t want to erase it. just a mention under techniques that the info is probably on the resources page would help a bunch.

    okay time for more coffee. i swear i’ll stop spamming this soon XD

  3. Gauge needs to say what pattern this is in – stockinette?
    Techniques: Add link to your Adamantis heel, in case anyone is curious (
    Toes: Link to JMCO instructions – I’m sure not everyone knows this by heart! (I know there’s a free Knitty tutorial, where it was first introduced). I would just include these links inline, rather than in a Resources section at the bottom, where they may not be noticed.
    Do you want a round of plain stockinette after the toe increases, before the chart begins?
    Math Break: I always find it a little insulting when patterns assure me “Don’t worry, you don’t have to do much of that horrible nasty math!” Others may be reassured. Just be aware this is a tightrope! OTOH, I love that your directions say to knit a while and THEN figure out your gauge! And given that your own shoe size is larger than average, it’s good that you have a way for people to figure out what they need instead of assuming yours will fit everyone.
    Might be good to stress that, if an accurate row gauge is critical, it’s best to measure the actual intended foot, rather than using the Zappos chart. (THough I think it’s still good to include the chart for anyone who might be knitting a sock for someone else whose foot isn’t nearby to measure.
    Gusset: “back of round” is a confusing term – better to say “needle 2” or sole needle – I don’t think that would confuse most Magic Loop knitters.
    You need an abbreviations section, where you define terms like M1L, M1R and SSK, with a brief explanation of each.
    You need to list a bit of waste yarn in your Materials section.

    All in all, I think the pattern is clear; I would have no trouble knitting from your instructions. The above comments are mostly just to make it clearer for people who aren’t experienced sock knitters.

  4. This from Neen, on a Ravelry group:

    My first comment, is that you could make this needle independent. You don’t include a ML tutoririal, so, instead, you could use markers, instead of needle end. I can’t tell you how often I hear a plaintive, “I want to use dpns, but the pattern is only written for 2 circ” or “I want to use 2 circs, but the pattern only says ML” I’m forever telling people to just use markers instead of needle end and do their own thing, but I really prefer “platform independent” directions.


    Note: use ML, 2 circs, or dpns as you prefer. When the directions call for a marker, use a separating one attached to your work, a marker on the needle, or label the appropriate Needle End with that Marker name. For DPNs, add in more needles when comfortable.

    cast on x onto each of 2 needles. (2x total, thank you for including this!)
    Knit 1 Rnd as follows: Place EOR, knit 12, place M, knit 12.
    2) (k1 Inc, knit to 1 before m, Inc k1 Slip M)2x (28 stitches, 14 between each pair of M)

    I know some designers detest writing this way, but, you asked, and it’s what I prefer. My descriptions and abbreviations and all are just examples of the info I mean. As an alternative, you could put in a blurb at the beginning, saying “this works equally well for 2 circs. For DPNs, use stitch markers instead of needle end.” Actually, so far I haven’t seen anything suggesting ML, why not list it as both ml and 2 circ, anyway?

  5. From Knitnskate:

    I might be missing something, but I don’t see anything with an explanation of abbreviations or a key to the chart. Also, I think including written directions along with the chart would be helpful, it certainly would be for me.

    The 1/1 cable crosses go both ways, and those need to be explained as well.

  6. I only just realized that I had to come here to download… look, it’s been a long week… lol

    Definitely need an abbreviations section and key as others have said. Toe needs to say that it’s MC.

    I will post as I go (as that’s how I test 🙂 )

  7. New pattern received. A few notes based on what I’ve read. I’d remove the asterisk after Magic Loop on page one and just have (or preferred method for knitting in the round). The asterisk made me look at the bottom of the page, because you had written the asterisk above about J.

    Maybe put a note after the “See Resources” indicating that they’re on page 8 instead of the “read to the end” part because I am a step by step knitter and never read a pattern all the way through because I get confused… lol.

    On page 2, I’d remove the abbreviation JMCO and write out Judy’s Magic Cast On. That way, people can look it up if they haven’t knit toe-up (I honestly had no idea what “JMCO” was, but use it often!)

    Stupid thing, but I’m weird when it comes to consistency… m1r/m1l in the pattern, but in the notes at the end they’re listed as M1R/M1L. Just something I noticed… you don’t need to change it if it’s good for you 🙂

  8. I wanted to check if the written pattern was generated from the chart or if you wrote it out independently… I normally try to test written because I find most testers prefer charts, but I’m having a hard time with the written on my laptop screen (font or something, I don’t know). I will try another way if you want me to test the written or if it is not generated from the chart.

  9. for anyone not looking at the chart who relies 100% on written instructions, they might not realize that the even rows should be knit using the CC. could just be a nit, but i’ve seen people complain about less 😉

    on to the fancy part for me! loving this so far.


  10. Eliminate the use of the asterisk (*) except for your first page, where you refer to your son.
    When you state on page Magic Loop as a required technique, you don’t need an asterisk.

  11. ok so i thought i posted this like three days ago but apparently not. so i’ll just add a p.s. XD

    no nits, just wanted to gush. despite two mysterious increases on what ended up being the sole, a couple of dropped stitches (one of which i caught in time to fix PERFECTLY, for the first time EVER)… i love this pattern so much that i’m already planning the next pair (or three) of socks with it.


    p.s. for the chart, i'd kinda like the numbers for the rows on both sides? if the program doesn't do that easily, i can write the numbers in on my own for sure.

    p.p.s. still in love with this pattern 😀

    1. So glad you’re enjoying it! 😀 I’m sure I can put numbers on either side of the chart even if manually – I’d avoided doing it, though, because usually I only use alternating sides if things are knit flat to indicate which way the row should be read.

  12. The first sock is done. The pattern works, my brain doesn’t. All mistakes are mine, lol.

    I used a worsted weight cotton, and it’s loose, but it was good for testing
    I agree written instructions should be there, and spell things out, as said earlier, that alternate rows are knit in CC. Also, yarns really do need contrast.

    1. Thanks! Do you think it would be helpful to include a brief tip on how to make sure yarns contrast, in the Resources?

  13. The instructions for the gusset could be confusing where you say to knit across the instep. I would clarify to continue established pattern on the instep. Sorry I’m slow… there was a death in the family. I’m back at it now and should hopefully finish in the next couple of days.

    1. I’m sorry for your loss 🙁 And yes, I should say “knit in established patten across the instep”.

  14. I don’t know if anyone mentioned or not, but on the heel flap… I think you wanted eye of partridge based on the 4 row instruction repeat, but you start row 5 with a sl1 (which is the same as row 3, but you wrote s1, k1 repeat) which just makes a slip stitch heel, which it’s hard to tell from the pic but I think isn’t how you intended.

  15. as a sock noob, i’m not sure how the math works out for adding more sock for different size feet? i’ll figure it out, though. i don’t know if there’s a way to make it more clear, or if i missed something (definitely a possibility).

    i started jumping into the gusset, then realized two rows in that when the directions say “knit across instep”, the picture actually shows the pattern extended up the instep. for clarity, i’d like to have seen “continue this pattern across instep, do the following for the sole/gusset/whatever”. but i don’t know if that’s me being a noob and nitpicking or not. (i had to tink two whole rows because if i frog knitting i can’t pick it back up. XD )

    also, this made me realize that the “instep” is the top of the foot, not the side (as i had previously mistakenly thought). thanks for helping me with that!


      1. definitely meant adding length!
        i suspect i was having a brain fog day when i tried to grok the directions, i bet it will be better tomorrow 🙂

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